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Bicycle Roadworthiness Check

Before riding your bike for the first time you should conduct basic checks following the ‘M’ method, and after that a simple ABC (Air, Brakes, Chain) check before setting off should be sufficient. Unless you are a confident mechanic, however, you should take your bike in for an annual or bi-annual service. Several local LCC groups organize repair workshops at a low cost, and also arrange ‘Dr Bike’ sessions where bikes can be examined and some minor adjustments carried out.

You should clean your bike at least once a month and lubricate it weekly (use a proper chain lubricant for the chain) if you use it regularly. A simple way of cleaning a bike is to use a bucket of warm water with some car shampoo in it and a ‘banister’ brush. For the chain and gears use a dishwashing brush and a plastic dish-scouring sponge, or specialized equipment, then lubricate them when dry.

The M-Check Method

This simple way of checking your bike gets its name from the M-shaped sequence of checks that you follow, from the bottom of the front wheel up to the handlebars, down to the chainset, up to the saddle and then down to the bottom of the rear wheel.

Front wheel

• The tyre should be fully inflated (the required pressure in psi or bar is marked on the side wall of the tyre) and the tread free of cuts
• The hub quick-release or the wheel nuts should be well secured
• The wheel should not move from side to side
• The rim should spin true and the brake surfaces should not be badly worn
• All spokes should be tight and in place
• The inner tube valve should be straight, not at an angle.

Front brake

• Spin the wheel and then pull the brake tight with the lever – the brake should lock the front wheel firmly
• The brake pads should not rub on the rim and should hit the rim squarely
• Brake cables should be tightly attached and not frayed at either brake or lever ends
• Replace broken cable casings
• Replace worn brake pads
• The brake should not move backwards and forwards or judder – if it does, you may need to tighten the brake assembly.

Forks

Forks usually curve away from the bike. Replace bent forks.

Headset

The headset should be tight but allow free movement of the handlebars.

Stem

• The stem should be secured tightly, and stems that move up and down should not be above their upward limit marker. Your stem should be in line with the front wheel.

Handlebars

• Handlebars should be tightly secured to stem
• All bolts attaching brake levers and gear levers to the handlebars should be secure
• Replace handlebar end plugs if missing.

Frame

Check for dents and cracks.

Bottom bracket and chainset

• The chainset should rotate smoothly when you turn it backwards
• The chainset should not wobble from side to side – a wobbly chainset usually means the bottom bracket is loose
• Chainrings should be true and it should be difficult to pull the chain away from them – if it pulls away easily it may be worn.

Chain

The chain should be free of mud and well lubricated. Use a degreaser to remove road dirt and apply proper chain lubricant (not WD40 or light oil). Replace the chain if it is worn – significant wear may require replacement of the gear sprockets at the same time.

Cranks

Both cranks should be firmly attached to the bottom bracket.

Pedals

Pedals should spin smoothly and be firmly attached to the cranks.

Front gears

• The cable should be firmly attached and not frayed. The cage should move smoothly from side to side
• If your front gears are not shifting properly you may need to adjust the upper and lower limits of the gear cage
• Gears that don’t shift at all could mean a rusty or defective cable.

Seat post

The seat post should be set to the correct height (see Correct Set-up, page 16) and not exceed the upper limit mark.

Saddle

The saddle should be in line with the wheels, secure and level or set a fraction downward at the front if you prefer.

Rear brake

Checks as for front brake.

Rear wheel

Checks as for front wheel.

Rear gears

• Indexed gears should change with a click – if they do not, you may need to adjust the upper and lower limits
• Bent gear hangers may affect performance, and stiff or rusty cables may also affect shifting
• If hub gears do not shift properly you may need to adjust the cable tension.

Accessories

• Make sure lights are fitted properly
• Check the bolts on your mudguards and luggage carriers – these often come loose and then fall out.

Tyre inflation

• For inner tubes with Schrader (car type) valves you push or screw on the pump connectorfirmly (the pin in the pump has to contact the pin in the valve), unfold the thumb lock on the pump (if it has one) and inflate. To deflate, press the pin inside the valve
• To inflate a Presta (long and thin) valve, unscrew the small nut on the tip of the valve, press it gently to release a little air, push or screw on the connector, then set the thumb lock and inflate. To deflate, unscrew the small nut and press.

Here are the essential items of kit you will need for travelling and at home:

Travelling:

• Portable pump suitable for your type of inner tube valve
• Spare inner tube to match your tyre size (check width and wheel diameter – usually 700 C or 26 inches)
• Puncture repair kit with patches, glue and sandpaper
• Three strong plastic tyre levers
• Multi-tool or set of Allen keys in sizes to fit all the bolts on your bike (including 8 mm for the chainset and the right size for brake pad adjustment)
• An adjustable spanner
• Small Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers
• Plastic gloves (from chemist)
• Zip ties
• Duct tape

Additions for basic home kit:

• Track pump with gauge
• Spanners in 8, 9, 10, 15 and 17 mm sizes
• Chain removal tool
• Bicycle wire cutters
• PliersSharp knife

About the Author

Bicycle Roadworthiness Check article is taken from the London Cycling Guide 2nd Edition and is published by New Holland Publishers, price £10.99 at http://www.newhollandpublishers.com/details.asp?pid=9781847739346&t=The-London-Cycling-Guide—2nd-edition

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